Block vehicle if it is on a slope. The transmission cannot act as a parking brake.
Before breaking a circuit connection, make certain that power is off and system pressure has been released. Lower all vertical cylinders, discharge accumulators and block any load whose movement could generate pressure.
Drain the oil from the vehicle hydraulic system. Use new clean oil when restoring the unit to service.
Clean the outside of the unit thoroughly to prevent entry of dirt into the system during removal. After removing the transmission pump from the vehicle and before disassembly, cap or plug all ports and disconnect lines.
Absolute cleanliness is essential when working on a hydraulic system. Always work in a clean area. The presence of dirt and foreign materials in the system can result in serious damage or inadequate operation.
Periodic maintenance of the transmission will generally not require disassembly to the extent described here. The sequence can also be used as a guide for partial disassembly. In general, disassembly is accomplished in the item number sequence shown in Figure 15. Special procedures are included in the following steps:
NOTE: Discard and replace all "O"rings, gaskets and shaft seals removed during disassembly.
B. Removal & Disassembly Of The V10/V20 Vane Pump.
NOTE: Mark all body sections with a prick punch to provide correct reassembly.
1. Remove the screws (1) which hold the single vane pump against valve block (75).
2. Slide the complete vane pump from the shaft and place on a flat surface.
3. Remove four screws (2) which hold vane pump cover (3) and remove the cover.
4. Remove "O"ring (4), spring (5), pressure plate (6), ring (7), and locating pins (8).
5. Slide vanes (9) and rotor (10) as an assembly from inlet body (12) and set aside for inspection.
6. Remove "O"ring (11) from inlet body (12).
7. Press shaft seal (14) from inlet body (12).
8. Release retaining ring (15) from its groove and slide coupling (16) and retaining ring back on shaft (17). Unscrew shaft (17) from shaft (48), then remove coupling and retaining ring from the shaft.
9. Disassemble vane pump cover as follows:
a. PRIORITY VALVE COVER - Remove parts (18) through (22) and slide piston (24) from the cover. Remove parts (25) through (29). DO NOT remove seat (30) unless condition of poppet (29) indicates seat (30) to be defective.
b. FLOW CONTROL COVER - Remove parts (18) through (24) except, DO NOT REMOVE snap ring (23) unless inspection shows the snap ring defective. DO NOT attempt to disassemble control valve (24). The control valve is factory assembled and preset to exacting specifications.
c. DIVIDER VALVE COVER - Remove hex plugs (18) and (21) and "O"ring from the divider valve bore, then slide the divider valve spool (24) from the cover.
NOTE: All parts must be thoroughly cleaned and kept clean during inspection and assembly. The close tolerance of the parts makes this requirement very important. Clean all removed parts using a commercial solvent that is compatible with the system fluid. Compressed air may be used in cleaning, but it must be filtered to remove water and contamination. Clean compressed air is particularly useful in cleaning the spool, cover, and valve block passages.
C. Inspection Repair & Replacement
NOTE: Replace all parts that do not meet the following specifications:
1. Inspect all components for excessive wear, erosion and/or seizure.
2. Check rings for chatter marks, cracks, and excessive wear. Minor surface marks may be removed with an India stone.
3. Flow Control Cover - Check the relief valve subassembly for free movement in the cover bore. Remove burrs from the valve by polishing, but DO NOT round off the corners of the lands. Do not attempt to rework the valve bore. If the bore is damaged, replace the cover.
Priority Valve Cover - Inspect the priority valve spool and bore for burrs. Remove burrs from the spool by light polishing with crocus cloth or #500 grit paper. DO NOT round off sharp corners of the lands. Inspect the cover bore for scratches, wear and/or a pitted surface. DO NOT attempt to rework the bore. If the bore is damaged, replace the cover. The priority valve spool must fit and move within the bore without evidence of bind. Rotate the spool through 360°, while inspecting for bind.
Integral Relief Valve - Inspect the spring. The spring ends must be parallel to prevent cocking of the poppet. The poppet requires a close inspection in the seat contact area. A slight wear pattern should exist around the poppet at the area of seat contact. If the wear pattern is broken, a possible leakage path exists between the poppet and seat. Inspect the seat for erosion or other defects. If relief valve seat is defective, remove as follows:
a. Thread seat (30) with a suitable tap.
b. Thread a three inch (or longer) screw through the seat until it bottoms within the cover. As the screw is turned, the seat will lift and may be removed from the cover.
4. Check vanes and rotor clearance. Vanes must slide easily in and out of the rotor and fit without being loose.
5. Check pump drive shaft for broken or chipped splines and wear in the area of the shaft seal. If wear is extensive, replace the shaft.
6. Inspect springs to be square and straight. Replace springs that show evidence of wear.
7. Inspect wear plates and pressure plates for scoring. Minor scratches can be removed with an India stone. If scratches are deep, replace the part or order a new pump cartridge.
D. Assembly Of Vane Pump
NOTE: Cover the assembly area with clean Kraft paper to prevent contamination of parts.
1. Obtain a seal kit for the unit being repaired.
2. Assemble the flow/priority valve covers as follows:
a. Flow Control Cover. If snap ring (23) was removed, install a new snap ring into the bore of the flow control cover. Make sure snap ring (23) is locked securely in its groove within the bore. Lubricate and assemble flow control spool (24) into bore. Install narrow land first. Wide land will be next to spring (20). Install spring (20) into bore and over the end of the flow control spool. Install new "O" rings (19) and (22) on plugs (18) and (21). Install plugs into bore and torque to 70-80 lb.ft., (95-108 N. m).
b. Priority Valve Cover - Refer to Figures 9 and 15. If relief valve seat (30) was removed, a new seat must be pressed into the cover (3). Lubricate and insert a new seat (30) chamfered end first into the cover opening. Align square and press into place. To prevent seat damage, use a short length of brass rod as a pressing tool. Clean the relief valve bore to remove chips and fileings. Insert poppet (29) into a short piece of tubing, then insert the poppet into the bore. Hold the tubing in the center of the bore and lightly tap the end of the tubing to mate the poppet and seat. Remove the poppet and tubing, then install the poppet into spring (28) and insert into the bore. Install plug (25) and "O"ring (26). DO NOT install shims (27) at this time. The relief valve pressure will be adjusted during test. (Removing shims reduces pressure while adding shims increases the pressure setting). Insert priority valve spool (24), small land first into the cover (refer to Figure 15). Place spring (20) over end of spool (24). Install new "O"rings (19) and (22) on plugs (18) and (21). Install plugs (18) and (21) at each end of the cover bore and torque to 70-80 lb.ft., (95-108 N. m).
c. Lubricate and install divider valve spool (24) as shown in Figure 15. Make sure the spool is oriented properly. Install "O"rings (19) and (22) on plugs (18 and 21), then thread the plugs in place. Torque the plugs to 70-80 lb.ft., (95-108 N. m).
3. Place inlet body (12) in position to install a new shaft seal (14). Press shaft seal (14) into the inlet body. The seal must rest against the shoulder at completion of press and shall be oriented garter spring outward, (reversed from a normal seal installation). See Figures 1 and 16.
4. Place inlet body on a clean piece of Kraft paper face down.
Figure 16. Shaft Seal Construction
NOTE: Flood all parts with system fluid at assembly to provide initial lubrication.
5. Install "O"ring (11) into inlet body (12).
6. Install vanes (9) into rotor (10) with radius edge of each vane outward, (toward ring 7). Place rotor and vanes on inlet body (12).
7. Install ring (7) over rotor and vanes with arrow on ring pointing in direction of rotation. See Figure 17.
Figure 17. Right and Left Hand Cartridge Kit Assembly
8. Insert the two alignment pins (8) through ring (7) into inlet body (12).
9. Install pressure plate (6) over ring (7) with alignment pins (8) located in pin holes of pressure plate. The pressure plate should be flush against the ring at the completion of this step. (Flood all parts of cartridge with system fluid.)
10. Install spring (5) over the boss of pressure plate (6) then install "O"ring (4) into cover (3). Orient cover (3) to agree with prick punch marks and thread screws (2) through cover and ring into inlet body (12). Torque screws to 35-45 lb.ft., (47.5 - 61 N·m).
11. Install "O"ring (13) over the boss of inlet body (12) and set the completed vane pump aside and cover the port openings to prevent entry of dirt or other contamination.
E. Disassembly Of Piston Pump Rotating Group And Valve Block
1. Use special "Torx" E-12 socket to remove six screws (31) from housing (32) and valve block (75).
2. Remove gasket (33) then slide tapered roller bearing (34) from the end of shaft (48).
3. Remove wafer plate (35) from valve block (75) then remove pin (36) from valve block.
4. Slide bearing spacer (37) off shaft (48).
5. Remove rotating group parts (38 through 47) as a unit. Hold the shoe plate (40), piston and shoe subassemblies (39), and cylinder block (38) with both hands to prevent separation of the rotating group during removal.
NOTE: The rotating group consists of a cylinder block (38) nine piston and shoe subassemblies (39), a shoe plate (40) a spherical washer (41), three pins (42), a pin retainer (43), retaining ring (44), washer (45), spring (46), and pin washer (47).
6. Remove parts (44 through 47) from cylinder block (38) as follows:
The spring located within the cylinder block is under a high tension and can cause bodily harm if the retaining ring (44) is removed without adequate caution. See Figure 18 for disassembly instructions.
Figure 18. Cylinder block subassembly disassembly tool. (Tighten nut, remove snap ring, and loosen nut to relieve spring tension)
7. Disassemble valve block (75) as follows:
NOTE: Mark each valve to permit reassembly into the same bore opening. Check valves develop a wear pattern within the valve block and may leak if the valves are interchanged.
Figure 18a. Cylinder Block Subassembly Parts
a. Remove the two plugs (65) "O"rings (66) springs (67) and cross line replenishing check valves (68) or (69) from valve block (75). A pencil type magnet is useful in this operation.
NOTE: Some models utilize combination cross line relief and check valve assemblies (69) in place of replenishing checks (68). The combination relief and check valves are not repairable. Replace the complete assembly if found defective.
b. Remove plug (70) "O"ring (71) spring (72) and replenishing relief valve (73) from valve block (75).
c. Remove two locating pins (74) if damaged, be careful not to scratch the face of the valve block during removal.
d. Check bearing (34) for score marks or brinelling of the rollers. If shaft bearing (34) is defective, remove the bearing race from the valve block. Use tool shown in Figure 12 and refer to Figure 19 for removal information.
Figure 19. Bearing race removal from the valve block
F. Disassembly Of Yoke Parts And Removal Of The Front Shaft Bearing And Shaft.
NOTE: The following steps F.2. and F.3. concerning removal of the yoke and front shaft bearing may not be required. Inspect the yoke for excessive wear, scratches and pickup. If the yoke is serviceable, check the front bearing for brinelling of the rollers and/or roughness, when turned in the race. DO NOT disassemble the yoke pintle bearing if the yoke and shaft bearing are functional. If either the yoke or the front shaft bearing were defective, performing the following steps in the order indicated. See Figure 11 for special removal tool dimensions and refer to Figure 20 during the shaft removal. To replace only the shaft seal, perform steps F.1 and F.4.
1. Remove drive shaft (48) as follows:
a. Install a nine inch piece of 1 1/2" heavy wall tubing over drive shaft (48) within the housing. The end of the tubing will rest against the inner race of tapered roller bearing (62) and extend out beyond the end of the pump housing.
b. Place the complete unit with tubing into an arbor press with drive spline up. See Figure 20.
c. Press the drive shaft through the bearing and out of the unit. A 0.001 inch press exists between the shaft and bearing so considerable force is required to remove the bearing from the shaft.
Figure 20. Front bearing removal.
2. Remove yoke as follows:
a. Remove yoke bearing parts (49 through 58). Be careful not to damage the seal on the long pintle during removal. If burrs exist on the pintle, clean-up with an India stone before removing pintle cover.
b. Retain shims (51) and (56) if possible and use a micrometer to measure each shims thickness. If the yoke pintle bearings are not defective, the same shims or new shims of the same thickness will be needed to preload the bearings at installation.
NOTE: If shims (51) or (56) were destroyed during disassembly, a yoke bearing preload adjustment will be required at assembly.
c. Slide yoke (61) from side to side to loosen yoke bearing races (59) or (60) within the housing. The races are a normal slip fit but may be tight. Use an open end wrench between the yoke and the pintle bearing to help slide out the races. Apply pressure to bearing (59) or (60) at the approximate center and allow the bearing rollers to gently press the race out of the housing.
d. Remove yoke (61) from housing (32).
3. Lift front shaft bearing (62) from the housing. DO NOT remove the bearing race unless bearing was found defective. Refer to Figure 21 for bearing race removal instructions. Use special tool shown in Figure 12.
4. Remove retaining ring (63) and press shaft seal (64) out of the housing. Use a short piece of 1 1/2" heavy wall tubing as a tool or if the yoke was not removed, use a brass rod and work from the inside of the housing to drive shaft seal (64) from the housing.
NOTE: All parts must be thoroughly cleaned and kept clean during inspection and assembly. Clean all removed parts, using a commercial solvent that is compatible with the system fluid. Compressed air may be used in cleaning, but it must be filtered to remove water and contamination. Clean compressed air is particularly useful in cleaning valve block passages.
G. Inspection Repair And Replacement
NOTE: Replace all parts that do not meet the following specifications:
1. Inspect vane pump shaft (17) for wear and chipped splines.
2. Check bearing spacer (37) for burrs. Remove small burrs with an India stone.
3. Inspect cylinder block face (38) for wear, scratches and/or erosion between cylinders. Check the spring, washers and retaining ring removed from within the cylinder block.
4. Check each cylinder block bore for excessive wear. Use the piston and shoe subassemblies (39) for this purpose. The piston should be a vary close fit and slide easily in and out of the bore. No bind can be tolerated. If binding is evident, clean the cylinder block and piston, lubricate with clean hydraulic fluid and try again. Even minor contamination of the fluid could cause the piston to freeze up in the cylinder bore.
5. Inspect each piston and shoe subassembly (39) for a maximum end play of 0. 003 inch between the piston and shoe.
6. Each shoe of the nine piston and shoe S/A's (39) must be inspected for thickness. They must be within 0. 001 inch of each other. If out of tolerance, replace the complete set of piston and shoe subassemblies simultaneously.
7. Inspect shoe plate (40) for excessive wear and cracking in the area of spherical washer (41). If heavy wear or cracks are found, replace the shoe plate and spherical washer at the same time.
8. Check spherical washer (41) for burrs, wear and possible scratches due to pin (42) breakage. Replace if wear is excessive.
9. Inspect pins (42) for equal length, excessive wear and possible bending. Replace all pins simultaneously if one is defective.
10. The pin retainer (43) may develop burrs. Remove all burrs with an India stone.
11. Inspect the bronze face of wafer plate (35) for excessive wear, scratches, and possible fracture. If the wafer plate is fractured, make sure the new plate rests flat against the valve block at assembly and that wafer plate pin (36) does not extent too far and hold the wafer plate away from the valve block.
12. Inspect shaft (48) for broken splines, burrs, and wear in the area of shaft seal (64). Remove burrs with an India stone. Wear in excess of 0.005 T.I.R. requires shaft replacement to prevent leakage.
13. Inspect shaft bearing (62) for brinelling, pitting of the rollers and roughness when turned in race located in the housing. If the bearing is defective, both the bearing and the race must be replaced. If the bearing race requires removal, perform the following step.
14. Remove bearing race (62) from housing (32) as shown in Figure 21. Use special tool shown in Figure 12.
Figure 21. Removal of the bearing race located within the housing
15. Inspect housing (32) for cracks, cross threads and wear in the area of the pintle bearing races. Check snap ring groove for wear and the proper depth. Check mounting face for deep scratches that could cause leakage past the gasket. Clean burrs and small scratches with an India stone.
16. Inspect pintle covers for flatness and burrs. Check the pintle seal for wear. Replace cover (50) if pintle seal is defective.
17. Check bearings and bearing races for evidence of bearing seizure, brinelling, pitting of the rollers and roughness when turned in the race. If a bearing is replaced, a yoke preload adjustment must be performed at assembly.
18. Inspect the valve block parts as follows:
a. Inspect the threaded plugs for worn corners on the hex head, stripped threads and burrs in the "O" ring groove. Use an India stone to remove burrs, if threads are defective, replace the plug.
b. Inspect springs (46), (67), and (72) for damaged coils. Replace springs if coils are damaged. Inspect springs for distortion. The ends of the springs must be parallel to each other. Replace springs if distorted.
c. Inspect the replenishing relief valve (73) for excessive wear, galling, erosion, and burrs. The seat contact area of the relief valve will have a bright circular contact area. Leakage paths across the relief valve will show up as a break in the bright circular area. Erosion in the seat area may also cause a leakage path to develop. Replace the valve if defective.
d. Inspect the two replenishing check valves (68) or combination relief and check valves (68), if used. Refer to the procedure developed for the replenishing relief valve (73) in the previous step. If the valves are defective, replace them with new assemblies.
e. Inspect valve block (75) for burrs, nicks, plugged body passages, flatness of the pump wafer plate area and porosity. If a relief valve or a check valve is replaced, thoroughly inspect the valve block bore from which the defective valve was removed. The valve seat may have eroded to a depth that a new valve cannot correct cross check leakage. Repair or replace the valve block if defective.
H. Assembly Of Valve Block Parts
NOTE: Refer to Figures 15 and 22 during the following assembly procedure.
Figure 22. Exploded view of the valve block parts.
NOTE: Check the flatness of each valve blockface in the areas around locating pins (74) and bolt openings. Use an India stone to remove burrs or raised metal in these areas.
1. Install replenishing relief valve (73) into valve block (75). The valve must slide free within the bore and show no evidence of bind when rotated through 360°.
NOTE: New valves must be seated within the valve block to prevent leakage. To seat a valve, first install valve into the valve block, then insert a brass rod (smaller than the spring) behind the valve. Give rod end a sharp tap with a small hammer. This will seat the new valve within the valve block. Remove the brass rod and valve. You will notice a circular pattern at the seat contact area of the valve. This pattern must not be broken or the valve will leak when put into service. Repeat the seating operation if required.
2. Install replenishing relief spring (72) (color coded red) behind the valve.
3. Assemble a new "O"ring (71) on plug (70). Thread plug (70) into valve block (75) and torque to 128-148 lb.ft., (174-201 N·m).
4. Assemble each cross line check valve into its appropriate valve block bore. Test cross line check valves (68) or (69) for bind as noted in step H. 1.
5. Assemble two cross line check valve springs (67) into valve block (75), (color coded green). See Figure 22.
6. Assemble a new "O"ring (66) on each of the two hex plugs (65) then thread the plugs into valve block (75). Torque plugs to 128-148 lb. ft., (174-201 N·m).
NOTE: If the bearing race was removed from valve block (75), install a new bearing race as shown in Figure 23. Use tool shown in Figure 13. This completes the assembly of the valve block.
Figure 23. Valve block race installation
I. Assembly Of Piston Pump Parts
NOTE: If new shaft bearings (34 or 62), shaft (48), valve block (75) or housing (32) is required, a complete shaft bearing preload adjustment must be performed. If the same parts are returned to service, the preload adjustment can be omitted. The same prodecure applies to yoke (61) and its associated bearings.
1. If shaft bearing (62) requires replacement, install a new bearing race into housing (32). Use tool shown in Figure 13 to press bearing race in place. Make sure bearing race is oriented properly to accept the roller bearing before pressing into the housing. The race must be bottomed against the shoulder of the housing at completion of press.
2. Place housing (32) on a flat surface with the shaft seal end down. Lay the front shaft bearing (62) into the race.
3. Orient the yoke pintle properly and install yoke (61) into housing (32). Assemble the yoke bearings, races and spacers as follows:
a. Assemble pintle bearings (59) and (60) on each end of the yoke and insert bearing races (59) and (60). See Figure 15.
b. Install bearing spacer (58) at the short pintle end.
NOTE: In the following step, early design units use a screw and washer arrangement. Torque screw and washer to 115-125 lb. in. (13-19 N·m)
c. Install "O"ring (57) against spacer (58) into the groove, then install a 0.010 inch shim (56) under pintle cover (55). Install four pintle cover screws (54) and torque to 175-185 lb. in., (19.77 - 20.9 N·m).
d. Set housing (32) on its side so the long pintle is up. Install bearing spacer (53) and rotate the yoke back and forth to seat bearings within the bearing races. With spacer (53) fully in against the bearing race, measure the height of the spacer with respect to the housing in two places (180° apart). Use a micrometer to perform this measurement. See Figure 24. Average the readings to obtain a nominal value. A 0.007 - 0.009 inch preload is required on the pintle bearings. Calculate the necessary shims to provide this preload as follows:
Assume the depth readings were 0.029 and 0.027 inch. Add the two figures together and divide by two to obtain the average. In this case, the average calculated is 0.028 inch. Subtract the nominal preload of 0.008 inch from the calculated average to obtain the required shim thickness.
Figure 24. Pintle bearing spacer height with respect to the pintle face.
Figure 24a. Measuring height of pintle bearing spacer with respect to the pintle face.
NOTE: If the calculated shim thickness is greater than 0.020, another shim must be added to the opposite side of the yoke to reduce the total shim thickness to less than 0.020 inch. Shim thickness at either pintle must not exceed 0.020 inch. This is necessary to provide proper "O"ring compression and prevent pintle seal leakage.
e. Install "O"ring (52) and correct shims (51). Slide cover (50) over yoke pintle and flush against the shims. Insert screws (49) through pintle cover (50) and thread into pintle face. Cross torque screws (49) to 175-185 lb. in., (19.77 - 20.9 N·m).
NOTE: The yoke (61) will be stiff but should be loose enough to be moved by hand, approximately 20 lb. in. torque. The tightness/drag indicates the bearings are preloaded. If the yoke cannot be moved by hand, the preload is too great. Repeat the preload adjustment until correct.
4. Install shaft (48) into front shaft bearing (62) as follows:
Use a short piece of 1 1/2 inch heavy wall tubing (approximately 6 inches long) over the drive spline of the shaft. The tubing must be long enough to go through the shaft. The tubing must be long enough to go through the shaft seal end of the pump and make contact with the inner race of the front bearing. Press the shaft through the bearing with an arbor press, until the bearing bottoms against the shoulder of the shaft. See Figure 25.
Figure 25. Front bearing installation
5. Remove the short piece of tubing and turn shaft bearing (62) in its race with the end of the shaft. The bearing rollers must turn free and smooth.
6. Tape the spline end of drive shaft (48) with plastic tape to prevent cutting new shaft seal (64). Start taping the shaft close to the housing and work toward the end of the shaft. Install a new shaft seal (64) (garter spring inward) in position over the shaft and press evenly into the housing. Use shaft seal driver shown in Figure 14. The seal must be positioned just below the retaining ring groove. Install retaining ring (63) into the housing. Use internal Truarc pliers to install retaining ring.
NOTE: If the shaft bearings, shaft, valve block, or housing were not replaced, use the bearing spacer removed during the disassembly procedure to preload the shaft bearings and perform step I. 13. If preload adjustment is necessary, perform steps I. 7. through I. 13.
7. Obtain a shaft bearing spacer kit and install the thickest bearing spacer (37) over shaft (48) with the chamfer facing into the housing (toward the shoulder on the shaft).
8. Slide new bearing (34) on the shaft and up against spacer (37). The small diameter of the tapered roller bearing must face out of the housing.
9. Install housing (32) to valve block (75) without gasket (33) and rotating group. Turn shaft (48) to seat the bearings, then torque the six housing attaching screws (31) to 2 lb. in. Check the opening between the valve block and housing to be as even as possible after tightening.
10. Use a feeler gage to measure the opening between valve block (75) and housing (32). Four measurements should be obtained equidistant around the unit. A tapered feeler gage is especially useful for this purpose. Average the four readings by adding them together and dividing by four. Calculate thickness of the shaft bearing spacer as follows:
11. Remove six mounting screws (31) and remove housing from the valve block.
12. Remove bearing (34) and bearing spacer (37).
13. Locate a bearing spacer with calculated dimensions and place next to the new bearing. Chamfer must face shoulder on shaft. Use the original spacer if preload is not performed.
14. Assemble spring (46), two washers (45) and (47) and retaining ring (44) into the cylinder block (38). See Figure 18 and reverse the instructions. Set the cylinder block S/A on a flat surface. Use Kraft paper between the block and surface to prevent scratching the cylinder block.
15. Install pin retainer (43) into the cylinder block (38). Position the pin retainer approximately 1/4" below the surface, and orient the open end of the pin retainer to be away from the large spline opening.
16. Slide three pins (42) into cylinder block S/A until they bottom against pin washer (47).
17. Place spherical washer (41) on top of the three pins; then install shoe plate (40) with nine piston and shoe subassemblies (39) over spherical washer and into the cylinder block S/A. Wobble the shoe plate to make sure that each piston is free within its bore within the cylinder block.
18. Set housing (32) on its side and hold the shaft end so drive shaft (48) is horizontal. Slide the rotating group into the housing. Rotate drive shaft (48) if necessary, to match the shaft splines to cylinder block (38) and spherical washer (41).
19. Install bearing spacer (37) with chamfer toward the shoulder of drive shaft (48).
20. Install tapered roller bearing (34) over the shaft and against the spacer. The small diameter of the tapered roller bearing must face toward valve block (75).
21. Install two housing alignment pins (74) and place a new gasket (33) over them. Cover the unit and set aside for final assembly.
J. Final Assembly Of Piston Pump, Valve Block And Vane Pump
1. Assemble wafer plate locating pin (36) into valve block (75). Refer to Figure 15.
2. Assemble wafer plate (35) over the bearing race and locating pin (36) with bronze surface away from valve block (75). See Figure 26. Make sure wafer plate is flat against valve block (75).
Figure 26. Wafer plates showing left and right hand configurations.
3. Place valve block (75) on its side. See Figure 15 for position required.
4. Assemble housing (32) against valve block (75) with six screws (31). Cross torque the screws to 23-26 lb.ft., (31-35 N·m). (Use "Torx" E-12 socket.)
NOTE: Washers were used on early designs. (Torque is the same with and without washers)
5. Install retaining ring (15) and coupling (16) over the end of vane pump shaft (17). See Figure 15. Slide the retaining ring and coupling past the normal assembled position and against the shoulder of the shaft. This will facilitate threading the vane pump shaft into the piston pump shaft during the next step.
6. Turn housing (32) to allow installation of vane pump shaft (17) into shaft (48). Thread vane pump shaft into the drive shaft until it bottoms against the shoulder of the shaft, then back out the vane pump shaft 1/4 turn.
7. Slide coupling (16) over the drive shaft and vane pump shaft splines.
8. Install retaining ring (15) in the groove directly behind coupling (16).
9. Install vane pump assembly over the vane pump shaft. Position the vane pump to agree with prick punch alignment marks.
10. Thread two screws (1) through vane pump inlet body (12) into valve block (75). Torque the screws to 55-60 lb.ft., (75-81 N·m).