Check and service as required:
- 1. Engine oil level.
- 2. Engine coolant level.
- 3. Engine turbocharger.
- 4. Engine air cleaners.
- 5. Fuel level.
- 6. Spray system water level.
- 7. Hydraulic oil level.
- 8. Hydraulic oil filter indicators.
- 9. Hydraulic oil cooler and radiator.
- 10. Moldboard cutting edge.
- 11. Cutter bits.
- 12. Water system.
- 13. Cutter drum water level.
- 14. Water spray nozzles.
- 15. Lubricate the cutter idler sheave.
- 16. Cutter drive sheave and gear reducer oil levels.
- 17. Optional high pressure water pump oil level.
- 18. Track gear reducer oil levels.
- 19. Tracks.
- 20. Compressed air system.
- 2. Engine coolant level.
Lubricate those points shown in the 10 hour column of the service chart.
Checking Engine Oil Level
Check the oil level daily before starting the engine. Add oil, if necessary, to bring it to the proper level on the dipstick.
NOTE: IF THE ENGINE HAS JUST BEEN STOPPED, WAIT APPROXIMATELY TWENTY MINUTES TO ALLOW THE OIL TO DRAIN BACK TO THE OIL PAN BEFORE CHECKING THE OIL LEVEL.
Checking Engine Coolant Level
CHECK THE ENGINE COOLANT WITH THE ENGINE STOPPED, but after the engine has reached operating temperature.
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BE CAREFUL. IF THE ENGINE IS WARM, STEAM MAY SPRAY OUTWARD UNDER HIGH PRESSURE. |
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- 1. Slowly turn the pressure cap to the first stop and release the pressure.
- 2. Push the cap down and turn it until it is released.
- 3. Maintain the coolant level within 2 inches of the top of the filler neck.
- 4. Make-up coolant should be clean soft water or a permanent type antifreeze containing rust inhibitor. Follow the recommendations given on the container.
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ADD COOLANT SLOWLY TO A HOT ENGINE, TO PREVENT POSSIBLE CRACKING OR DISTORTING OF THE CYLINDER HEAD. |
If a loss of coolant is noticable, check for leaks in the system. After filling the system, start the engine and recheck the coolant level after normal operating temperature is reached. Running the engine at operating temperature will permit the temperature regulator to open and allow the coolant to circulate through the entire system and purge air from the engine.
Checking The Turbocharger
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USE CARE WHEN WORKING ON A RUNNING ENGINE TO AVOID MOVING COMPONENTS. STAY CLEAR OF HOT EXHAUST DUCTING ON AN ENGINE THAT IS RUNNING OR HAS RECENTLY RUN. |
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Before starting the engine, check the turbocharger oil inlet and outlet lines for leaks, check that the turbocharger mountings are tight, and check that all intake and exhaust ducts and connections are tight. After starting the engine, check the intake and exhaust ducting and connections for leaks and check for unusual noise or vibration in the turbocharger. If there is excessive noise or vibration, SHUT THE ENGINE DOWN, remove the turbocharger and correct the problem.
Checking Engine Air Cleaners
The engine air cleaners are equipped with an indicator that shows a red signal when the main elements should be serviced. If the red signal is locked in view, the main elements should be serviced as soon as possible to prevent possible engine damage. See "Changing the Air Cleaner Elements" below for procedures.
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STOP THE ENGINE BEFORE SERVICING THE AIR CLEANERS. |
The air cleaners each have a dust cup that collects the dust from the pre-cleaner. Empty the dust cups as required. Do not allow dust to build up closer than 1 inch from the baffles. Remove and inspect the dust cups daily until a regular service interval can be established.
When replacing a dust cup, be sure a seal is made between the cup and the body to maintain high pre-cleaner efficiency.
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THIS IS A DRY TYPE AIR CLEANER - DO NOT USE OIL. |
Changing An Air Cleaner Element
The main elements should be cleaned or replaced with new or cleaned elements anytime the air cleaner indicator is locked in view. Replace the main elements after six cleanings or one year of use, whichever occurs first. (See the Maintenance Manual for cleaning procedures.)
To replace a main element:
- 1. STOP THE ENGINE, then remove the dust cup.
- 2. Remove the wing nut, then remove the main element.
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WHEN THE AIR CLEANER IS CONNECTED TO THE ENGINE, DO NOT USE COMPRESSED AIR TO CLEAN THE AIR CLEANER BODY. TO DO SO WILL FORCE MATERIAL INTO THE ENGINE. |
- 3. Immediately inspect the main element for any dust streaks on the inside. If there are any dust streaks, the element is damaged. THROW IT AWAY.
- 4. Inspect the main element gasket. If the element gasket is not smooth and flat or is damaged in any way that might allow dust to get by, THROW THE ELEMENT AWAY.
- 5. Inspect the new or cleaned element and gasket for shipping or storage damage.
- 6. Install a new or cleaned main element and tighten the wing nut securely.
- 7. Install the dust cup.
Checking Fuel Level
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NEVER HAVE THE ENGINE RUNNING AND NEVER SMOKE OR HAVE AN OPEN FLAME WHEN REFUELING THE MACHINE. HOLD THE FUNNEL OR SPOUT AGAINST THE TANK FILLER NECK TO AVOID A STATIC ELECTRICITY SPARK. DIESEL FUEL IS VOLATILE AND COULD IGNITE OR EXPLODE, CAUSING SERIOUS BURNS AND INJURIES FROM FLYING OBJECTS. |
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The fuel tank has a sight gauge for easy checking of the fuel level. The tank should be filled at the end of the day to keep condensation, caused by the tank cooling overnight, to a minimum.
Checking Spray System Water Level
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DO NOT OBSTRUCT THE FLAPPER VALVE ON THE WATER TANK. THE FLAPPER VALVE MUST RELIEVE AIR PRESSURE DURING RAPID FILLING OF THE TANK OR THE TANK MAY BLOW OUT. |
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The water tank is equipped with a sight gauge for easy checking of the water level. The tank should be filled before starting operation.
To prevent damage to the water spray and optional washdown system components when the machine is left out in freezing temperatures, the filter bowl must be emptied and the tank, hoses and pump(s) drained. The pump(s) can be drained by opening the petcocks. Allow all the water to drain from the tank and pump(s). If the machine has a washdown system, set the washdown control at "On". Turn the engine with the starter until the pump(s) has turned for several seconds. This will remove the water from the chambers of the pump(s).
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IT IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT THAT THE WATER SPRAY SYSTEM FUNCTION PROPERLY AT ALL TIMES. IF IT DOES NOT, LARGE AMOUNTS OF DUST WILL LEAVE THE CUTTER AREA AND BE DRAWN INTO THE RADIATOR AND OIL COOLER CAUSING OVERHEATING OF THE ENGINE AND HYDRAULIC SYSTEMS. WHEN FILLING THE WATER TANK, USE THE CLEANEST WATER POSSIBLE TO AVOID RAPID LOADING UP OF THE STRAINER AND/OR FILTER. |
Checking Hydraulic Oil Level
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SHUT THE ENGINE DOWN WHEN TRANSFERRING OIL FROM THE REPLENISHING TANK, SO THERE IS NO CHANCE OF GETTING CAUGHT IN THE PUMP DRIVE GEARBOX BELT DRIVE. |
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The hydraulic oil tank is equipped with a sight gauge for easy checking of the oil level. If needed, use the replenishing pump to transfer oil from the replenishing tank. The replenishing tank should be kept nearly full at all times to ensure that hydraulic oil is available if needed and to keep condensation to a minimum.
Checking The Hydraulic Oil Filter Indicators
The return filter and the supply filter (track drive pump suction filter) each have an indicator to show when the filter elements should be changed. When the return oil or supply oil is at operating temperature, the systems are operating normally, and the filters are clean, the indicator transparent housings will show a bright yellow sleeve. As a filter traps dirt and particles and gets more clogged, the yellow will be replaced by red. When an indicator is nearly all red with the hydraulic oil at operating temperature and the system in operation, the filter elements should be changed. See page 5-55 for procedures.
Checking Hydraulic Oil Cooler And Radiator
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ALWAYS WEAR EYE PROTECTION, LONG SLEEVES AND GLOVES WHEN CLEANING WITH COMPRESSED AIR, TO PREVENT INJURIES FROM FLYING PARTICLES. NEVER USE MORE THAN 30 PSI AIR PRESSURE AND NEVER USE OXYGEN. THE USE OF OXYGEN COULD CAUSE A FIRE OR EXPLOSION. |
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Since the cooling air flows through the oil cooler and then through the radiator, any obstructions to air flow through either will also obstruct the air flow through the other. Any rags, paper, DUST, mud, bugs, etc. that may obstruct the air flow must be removed. Pivot the oil cooler out, then use an air hose to remove any loose material from the oil cooler and radiator. Use a steam cleaner, if necessary, to remove any remaining material.
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IT IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT THAT THE RADIATOR AND OIL COOLER SURFACES BE KEPT CLEAN. OTHERWISE, THE ENGINE AND HYDRAULIC SYSTEMS MAY BE DAMAGED. |
Checking The Moldboard Cutting Edge
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SHUT THE ENGINE DOWN, LOCK THE CUTTER CONTROL AT "OFF", AND REMOVE THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION SWITCH BEFORE WORKING NEAR THE CUTTER. SERIOUS INJURIES CAN RESULT FROM INADVERTENT STARTING OF THE CUTTER. |
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The moldboard cutting edge and wear plates should be checked for excessive wear and for loose connecting bolts. Tighten any loose bolts and replace the cutting edge or wear plates as necessary.
Checking Cutter Bits, Bit Holders And Flighting
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SHUT THE ENGINE DOWN, LOCK THE CUTTER CONTROL AT "OFF", AND REMOVE THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION SWITCH BEFORE WORKING ON THE CUTTER. SERIOUS INJURIES CAN RESULT FROM INADVERTENT STARTING OF THE CUTTER. |
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The cutter bits should be checked for excessive wear and replaced anytime the distance from the holders to the tip of the bits (normal wear or to the end of the supporting metal (carbide tip exposed) is 1 1/4inches or less.
At the same time the bits are checked, also check the cutter flighting, holder blocks and bit holders for breaks or cracks. Replace as necessary.
NOTE: TO TURN THE CUTTER WITHOUT THE ENGINE RUNNING, OPEN THE DOOR IN THE CUTTER BELT GUARD, PLACE THE WRENCH SUPPLIED WITH THE MACHINE OVER A NUT ON THE CUTTER SHEAVE, THEN PULL THE WRENCH FLANGE AGAINST THE OPPOSITE NUT.
Replacing A Cutter Bit
When the bits get worn they should be changed as a group so that all the bits are approximately the same length. If a single bit is longer than the bits around it, the long bit may be broken off or the bit holder damaged when the bit hits the concrete. Keep several worn bits on hand to replace any bits that break.
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LOCK THE CUTTER CONTROL AT "OFF" BEFORE REPLACING CUTTER BITS. SERIOUS INJURIES CAN RESULT FROM INADVERTENT STARTING OF THE CUTTER. ALWAYS WEAR EYE PROTECTION WHEN CHANGING THE CUTTER BITS. |
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An air operated hammer and a punch for the hammer are supplied with each machine. To remove a bit:
- 1. LOCK THE CUTTER CONTROL AT "OFF", then start the engine.
- 2. Connect the air hammer hose to the air system quick disconnect.
- 3. Insert the tip of the punch into the opening in the bit holder and use the air hammer to drive the bit out.
- 4. Position the new bit in the holder and drive it into place with a hammer. Be sure the keeper spring is engaged with the holder.
A manual bit puller is supplied with each machine. To remove a bit, place the puller on the shoulder of the bit and sharply strike the underside of the puller with a hammer.
A drive pin and hammer can also be used to remove a bit, if necessary. Insert the drive pin into the opening in the bit holder and strike the drive pin sharply with a hammer.
Replacing A Damaged Bit Holder
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SHUT THE ENGINE DOWN, LOCK THE CUTTER CONTROL AT "OFF", AND REMOVE THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION SWITCH BEFORE WORKING ON THE CUTTER. SERIOUS INJURIES CAN RESULT FROM INADVERTENT STARTING OF THE CUTTER. |
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DO NOT TOUCH THE BIT HOLDER OR CUTTER FLIGHTING UNTIL THEY ARE COOL. |
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- 1. Cut the bit holder free of the block and remove the holder.
- 2. Grind the surface of the holder mounting block smooth.
- 3. Position the new bit holder the same as the other bit holders. Slide the bit holder onto the mounting block so the bit holder is flush with the block.
- 4. Weld the bit holder to the holder mounting block. The welding process used should be CO-2 shielded fluxcored arc welding using a .052 E70T-1 electrode and electrode positive polarity. The contact tip to work distance should be 1", gas flow set at 30-40 CFH, voltage at 28V and amperage at 250A.
Servicing The Water System
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USE EXTREME CARE WHEN CHECKING THE WATER PRESSURE GAUGES. SINCE THE ENGINE MUST BE RUNNING, ONE PERSON SHOULD BE AT THE CONTROLS WHILE ANOTHER CHECKS THE GAUGES. |
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The water spray system has two pressure gauges that should be checked periodically during operation and as part of the daily service. The gauges, mounted on the inlet and outlet of the water system filter, should be checked with the spray system operating. If the pressure gauge on the outlet of the filter falls below 20 psi, or the difference between the two pressures is more than 20 psi, the filter element should be changed (see below). If the pressure gauge on the inlet to the filter falls below 30 psi, the strainer screen should be removed and cleaned (see page 5-32). Regardless of the pressure gauge reading, the valve on the strainer should be opened daily to allow the water to flush the strainer out. DO NOT flush the strainer with the spray system operating.
Changing The Water Filter Element
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SHUT THE ENGINE DOWN BEFORE WORKING UNDER THE MACHINE. ALSO REMOVE THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION SWITCH SO THE ENGINE CANNOT BE STARTED WITHOUT YOUR PRIOR KNOWLEDGE. |
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- 1. Check the pressure gauges to be sure there is no pressure in the system.
- 2. Unscrew the filter sump from the filter head.
- 3. Remove the element (cartridge) from the sump and pull the seal plate from the bottom of the element.
- 4. Clean the head, sump, seal plate and gasket. Replace the gasket if necessary.
- 5. Place the seal plate on the bottom of the element and insert the element into the sump.
- 6. Position the gasket and install the sump on the head. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. Leave a slight gap between the head and the top of the sump.
- 7. Start the engine, start the water spray system, and check the filter for leaks.
Checking The Cutter Drum Water Level
- 1. Stop the machine with the cutter teeth off the ground, shut the engine down, lock the cutter control at "Off", and remove the key from the ignition switch.
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SHUT THE ENGINE DOWN, LOCK THE CUTTER CONTROL AT "OFF", AND REMOVE THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION SWITCH BEFORE WORKING NEAR THE CUTTER. SERIOUS INJURIES CAN RESULT FROM INADVERTENT STARTING OF THE CUTTER. |
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NOTE: TO TURN THE CUTTER WITHOUT THE ENGINE RUNNING, OPEN THE LOWER DOOR IN THE CUTTER BELT GUARD, PLACE THE WRENCH SUPPLIED WITH THE MACHINE OVER A NUT ON THE CUTTER SHEAVE, THEN PULL THE WRENCH FLANGE AGAINST THE OPPOSITE NUT.
- 2. Open the cutter door and rotate the cutter to place the plug 5 inches above the centerline of the cutter.
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LET THE CUTTER DRUM COOL UNTIL IT IS COMFORTABLE TO TOUCH BEFORE REMOVING THE PLUG. THE WATER CAN BE HOT ENOUGH TO CAUSE WATER AND STEAM TO SPRAY OUTWARD WHEN THE PLUG IS REMOVED. SERIOUS BURNS CAN RESULT. |
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- 3. Remove the plug. If water does not flow from the port, add a 50% solution of water and ethylene glycol permanent antifreeze until the water level reaches the port.
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THE MACHINE IS SHIPPED FROM THE FACTORY WITH A 50% SOLUTION OF WATER AND ETHYLENE GLYCOL PERMANENT ANTIFREEZE IN THE CUTTER DRUM. THIS SOLUTION MUST BE MAINTAINED IF THE CUTTER DRUM AND PLANETARY GEAR REDUCER ARE TO BE PROTECTED WHEN THE MACHINE IS PARKED IN FREEZING TEMPERATURES. |
Checking The Spray Nozzles
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IT IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT THAT THE SPRAY NOZZLES OPERATE PROPERLY AT ALL TIMES. IF THEY DO NOT, LARGE AMOUNTS OF DUST WILL LEAVE THE CUTTER AREA AND BE DRAWN INTO THE RADIATOR AND OIL COOLER CAUSING OVERHEATING OF THE ENGINE AND HYDRAULIC SYSTEMS. |
To check the spray nozzles:
- 1. Be sure the travel control is at "N", the emergency and parking brake control is at "APPLY", and the CUTTER CONTROL IS LOCKED AT "OFF".
- 2. Check that there is plenty of water in the tank.
- 3. Open the doors on the cutter.
- 4. Loosen the bolts in the cover plates at the right end of the cutter enough that the spray nozzles can be seen.
- 5. Start the engine and move the spray bar control to "On".
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NEVER PUT HANDS OR FEET INSIDE THE CUTTER HOUSING WHILE THE ENGINE IS RUNNING. |
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- 6. STAYING WELL CLEAR OF THE CUTTER, visually check the spray pattern inside the housing and check the two end nozzles.
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SHUT THE ENGINE DOWN, LOCK THE CUTTER CONTROL AT "OFF", AND REMOVE THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION SWITCH BEFORE WORKING NEAR THE CUTTER. SERIOUS INJURIES CAN RESULT FROM INADVERTENT STARTING OF THE CUTTER. |
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- 7. If a nozzle is not spraying properly, SHUT THE ENGINE DOWN and then remove the nozzle.
NOZZLE ASSEMBLY
- 8. Disassemble, clean and reassemble the nozzle.
- 9. Reinstall the nozzle and check its operation as in 5 and 6 above.
- 10. SHUT THE ENGINE DOWN, close the cutter doors, and reinstall the cover plates.
Lubricating The Cutter Idler Sheave
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SHUT THE ENGINE DOWN, LOCK THE CUTTER CONTROL AT "OFF", AND REMOVE THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION SWITCH BEFORE WORKING NEAR THE CUTTER BELTS. SERIOUS INJURIES CAN RESULT FROM INADVERTENT STARTING OF THE CUTTER. |
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- 1. If necessary, unbolt the right side averaging ski beams, remove the retaining bolt from the extension, swivel the extension out of the way, then open the cutter belt guard.
- 2. Connect a grease gun filled with the proper lubricant (see page 5-1 for specification) to the grease fitting.
- 3. Apply lubricant through the fitting until resistance is felt on the grease gun handle.
- 4. Close the cutter belt guard and install the averaging ski and extension.
NOTE: THE CUTTER IDLER SHEAVE HAS A RELIEF VALVE WHICH ALLOWS EXCESS LUBRICANT TO FLOW FROM THE SHEAVE. DUE TO EXPANSION OF THE LUBRICANT CAUSED BY HEAT, LUBRICANT MAY FLOW FROM THE RELIEF VALVE FOR THE FIRST FEW HOURS OF OPERATION. DO NOT ADD LUBRICANT TO THE IDLER SHEAVE TO REPLACE LUBRICANT LOST THROUGH THE RELIEF VALVE.
Checking The Cutter Drive Sheave And Gear Reducer Oil Levels
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SHUT THE ENGINE DOWN, LOCK THE CUTTER CONTROL AT "OFF", AND REMOVE THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION SWITCH BEFORE WORKING ON THE CUTTER. SERIOUS INJURIES CAN RESULT FROM INADVERTENT STARTING OF THE CUTTER. |
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- 1. Remove the cover plate outside the cutter drive belt guard, then open the cutter drive belt guard.
- 2. Rotate the cutter so that the gear reducer check plug is 2 inches below the cutter centerline.
NOTE: TO TURN THE CUTTER WITHOUT THE ENGINE RUNNING, OPEN THE DOOR IN THE CUTTER BELT GUARD, PLACE THE WRENCH SUPPLIED WITH THE MACHINE OVER A NUT ON THE CUTTER SHEAVE, THEN PULL THE WRENCH FLANGE AGAINST THE OPPOSITE NUT.
- 3. Let the machine stand idle long enough for all the oil to settle to the bottom of the gear reducer and sheave. The length of time necessary will depend on whether the cutter has just been operated and on the temperature of the oil.
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IT IS IMPORTANT TO ALLOW ENOUGH TIME FOR ALL THE OIL TO SETTLE, OR THE GEAR REDUCER OR SHEAVE MAY BE OVER FILLED. |
- 4. Remove the check plugs one at a time. If oil trickles from the check plug port, reinstall the check plug. If a large amount of oil flows from the port, allow the oil to drain, then reinstall the plug. If no oil is apparent at the check plug port, add oil as described below.
- 5. To add oil to the gear reducer or sheave, remove the breather, add oil through the breather port until it reaches check plug level, wait several minutes for the oil level to even out throughout the reducer or sheave, then add more oil.
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EXTREME CARE MUST BE TAKEN WHEN ADDING OIL TO ENSURE THAT THE PROPER OIL LEVEL IS REACHED. THE CHECK PLUG PORT AND BREATHER PORT ARE BOTH CONNECTED TO THE SAME COMPARTMENT, SO OIL MAY FLOW FROM THE CHECK PLUG PORT EVEN THOUGH THE OVERALL OIL LEVEL IS STILL LOW. BE SURE TO ALLOW ENOUGH TIME FOR THE OIL TO FLOW THROUGH THE BEARINGS AND REACH THE CORRECT LEVEL IN ALL COMPARTMENTS. MORE TIME MUST BE ALLOWED FOR COLD OIL SINCE IT WILL NOT FLOW AS FAST AS WARMER OIL. |
- 6. After the correct oil level is assured, install the check plugs, cover plates and breathers.
Checking The Optional High Pressure Water Pump Oil Level
Stop the pump before checking the oil level. Maintain the oil level in accordance with the markings on the dipstick. USE ATF TYPE F HYDRAULIC OIL.
Checking Track Gear Reducer Oil Levels
- 1. Position the machine so that the fill plug in a gear reducer is at the top of the case and the check plug is at the same level as the center of the case.
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SHUT THE ENGINE DOWN AND REMOVE THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION SWITCH BEFORE WORKING NEAR THE TRACKS. ACCIDENTAL ENGAGEMENT OF THE TRACKS COULD CAUSE SERIOUS INJURIES. |
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- 2. Allow time for the oil to settle to the bottom of the gear reducer, then remove the check plug.
- 3. If the oil does not trickle from the check plug port, remove the fill plug and add oil until check plug port level is reached.
- 4. Install the check plug and fill plug.
- 5. Repeat steps 1 through 4 for the other tracks.
Checking The Tracks
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SHUT THE ENGINE DOWN AND REMOVE THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION SWITCH BEFORE WORKING ON THE TRACKS. ACCIDENTAL ENGAGEMENT OF THE TRACKS COULD CAUSE SERIOUS INJURIES. |
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The tracks should be checked for broken, loose, or missing pads; for loose or missing fenders; and for a track chain that is obviously too loose. Replace any broken, loose or missing track pads and recheck the track pad mounting bolt torque after the first 10, 20 and 30 hours of operation (see page 5-38). Adjust the tension of any loose track chain (see page 5-36).
Servicing The Compressed Air System
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STAY CLEAR OF AIR ESCAPING FROM THE SYSTEM. IT CAN CAUSE INJURIES. |
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- 1. Open the drain valve at the bottom of the reservoir and the petcock at the bottom of the filter regulator. Let the air flow until accumulated moisture is removed.
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DISCHARGE ALL AIR PRESSURE FROM THE LUBRIAVSOR BEFORE ADDING OIL. |
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- 2. Check the lubricator oil level and add 10W non-detergent oil as needed. Before adding oil, close the shutoff valve and open the petcock at the bottom of the filter regulator until all air pressure is discharged.