- 1. Drain, clean and refill the engine cooling system.
- 2. Check the engine air box drain tubes.
- 3. Check the engine blower screen and gasket assembly.
- 4. Change the hydraulic oil, clean the magnetic screen, and change the filter elements.
- 5. Change the oil in the pump drive gearbox, gear reducers, and cutter drive sheave.
- 6. Lubricate the power take-off bearings.
- 7. Inspect the air compressor.
Lubricate those points shown in the 1000 hour column of the service chart.
Servicing The Engine Cooling System
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THE ENGINE COOLANT CAN BE HOT ENOUGH TO CAUSE SERIOUS BURNS. USE CARE WHEN DRAINING THE COOLANT AND SHUT THE ENGINE DOWN BEFORE STARTING. |
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Clean the cooling system by using a good radiator cleaning compound in accordance with the instructions on the container. After the cleaning operation, rinse the cooling system thoroughly with fresh water. Then fill the system with soft water, adding a good grade of rust inhibitor or a high boiling point type antifreeze. When a thorough cleaning of the cooling system is required, it should be reverse flushed.
The engine coolant is drained by opening the cylinder block and radiator drain cocks and removing the radiator cap. The removal of the radiator cap permits air to enter the cooling passages and the coolant to drain completely from the system.
Drain cocks are located on each side of the cylinder block at both the front and rear of the engine. The drain cocks at the rear of the engine are below the exhaust manifold. The front surface of the cylinder block has drain cocks on each side above the engine front cover.
In addition to the drains on the block, the oil cooler housing has a drain cock at the extreme bottom. Radiators and other components that do not have a drain cock are drained through the oil cooler housing drain cock.
To ensure that all of the coolant is drained completely, all cooling system drains should be opened.
At the same time the cooling system is cleaned, check the thermostats and seals. Replace as necessary.
Checking The Air Box Drain Tubes
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SHUT THE ENGINE DOWN BEFORE WORKING ON THE DRAIN TUBES. STAY CLEAR OF HOT EXHAUST DUCTING. |
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With the engine running, check for flow of air from the air box drain tubes. If the tubes are clogged, remove, clean and reinstall the tubes. The air box drain tubes should be cleaned periodically even though a clogged condition is not apparent.
Checking The Engine Blower Screen And Gasket Assembly
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SHUT THE ENGINE DOWN BEFORE WORKING IN THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT. STAY CLEAR OF HOT EXHAUST DUCTING. |
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- 1. Remove the air housing and inspect the blower screen and gasket assembly. If necessary, clean the screen in diesel fuel and dry it with compressed air.
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NEVER SMOKE OR HAVE AN OPEN FLAME WHEN USING DIESEL FUEL. DIESEL FUEL IS VOLATILE AND COULD IGNITE OR EXPLODE, CAUSING SERIOUS BURNS AND INJURIES FROM FLYING OBJECTS. |
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- 2. Install the screen and gasket assembly with the screen side of the assembly toward the blower.
- 3. Inspect for evidence of blower seal leakage.
Changing The Hydraulic Oil
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LET THE MACHINE STAND IDLE UNTIL THE HYDRAULIC OIL HAS COOLED OFF. THE OIL AT OPERATING TEMPERATURE CAN CAUSE SERIOUS BURNS. THE HYDRAULIC OIL TANK SHOULD BE COMFORTABLE TO TOUCH BEFORE DRAINING THE OIL. |
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When changing the hydraulic oil, cleanliness must be kept in mind at all times. Perform the work in a clean area, use clean tools, keep your hands clean and clean up the outside of the hydraulic oil tank before starting.
- 1. Close the shutoff valve in the track drive pump suction line, thoroughly clean around the filter discharge port and the hose end, disconnect the hose from the filter, and cap or plug the end of the hose.
- 2. Connect one end of a hose to the filter, place the other end of the hose in a suitable container, then open the valve and let the oil drain from the tank.
- 3. Thoroughly clean the tank cover and surrounding area of the tank, remove the bolts from the tank cover, and pull the cover from the tank.
- 4. Remove the magnetic filter from the pipe nipple.
MAGNETIC FILTER
- 5. Clean the filter in clean solvent and blow dry with filtered air.
- 6. Install the cleaned filter on the pipe nipple.
- 7. Thoroughly clean the tank cover and gasket.
- 8. Install the tank cover and gasket. Use a new gasket, if necessary.
- 9. Disconnect the drain hose from the filter and connect the suction hose.
- 10. Replace the elements in the return, supply and auxiliary pressure filters. See below and page 5-56 for procedures.
- 11. Refill the tank with hydraulic oil by pumping the oil from the replenishing tank and adding oil to the replenishing tank as needed. Use only hydraulic oil that conforms to the specification on page 5-1.
- 12. Loosen the hose at the suction port of each pump until air-free hydraulic oil flows from the connection.
- 13. Loosen the outlet connection on the auxiliary pump and crank the engine with the starter until air-free hydraulic oil flows from the connection. Tighten the connection.
- 14. Start the engine and run at a low idle for several minutes. Check for leaks and check the hydraulic oil level. Add oil as necessary.
Cleaning The Hydraulic Oil Magnetic Filter
See "Changing the Hydraulic Oil" on page 5-53.
Changing The Return And Track Drive Pump Supply Filter Elements
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LET THE MACHINE STAND IDLE UNTIL THE HYDRAULIC OIL HAS COOLED OFF. THE OIL AT OPERATING TEMPERATURE CAN CAUSE SERIOUS BURNS. THE FILTER HOUSING SHOULD BE COMFORTABLE TO TOUCH BEFORE REMOVING IT. |
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Both elements of the return filter should be changed any time one is changed. To change the elements:
- 1. Close the shutoff valve, if applicable.
- 2. Hold the filter housing to keep it from turning and loosen the center post.
- 3. Lower the center post and housing away from the body.
- 4. Check the filter element and note the types and amounts of contamination. If there is excessive contamination, the hydraulic oil should be drained from the tank, the tank refilled with clean oil and all the filter elements changed.
| NOTICE |
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EXCESSIVE METAL PARTICLES IN THE OIL OR DISCOLORATION OF THE OIL ARE AN INDIAVSION OF AN IMPENDING COMPONENT FAILURE. LOAVSING THE CAUSE OF THE CONTAMINATION CAN HELP PREVENT FUTURE PROBLEMS. THE CMI FIELD ENGINEERING OFFICE AND/OR HYDRAULICS SHOP WILL GLADLY PROVIDE CONSULTATION ON APPROPRIATE ACTION IN SPECIFIC CASES. |
- 5. Discard the old filter element.
- 6. If the inside of the filter housing is dirty, clean it with clean non-flammable solvent and blow it dry. DO NOT CLEAN ANY O-RINGS OR SEALS WITH SOLVENT.
- 7. Examine all O-rings and seals. Replace any that appear faulty.
- 8. Reassemble the filter housing, spring, seals, O-rings and center post with a new filter element. BE SURE THE CORRECT ELEMENT IS USED.
- 9. Install the filter housing on the filter body. Hold the housing from turning while tightening the center post, or the O-ring between the housing and the body may be stretched out of shape and cause leaking. Tighten the center post to a MAXIMUM OF 20 FT.-LBS.
- 10. Open the shutoff valve, if applicable.
Changing The Auxiliary Pressure Filter Element
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LET THE MACHINE STAND IDLE UNTIL THE HYDRAULIC OIL HAS COOLED OFF. THE OIL AT OPERATING TEMPERATURE CAN CAUSE SERIOUS BURNS. THE FILTER HOUSING SHOULD BE COMFORTABLE TO TOUCH BEFORE REMOVING IT. |
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- 1. Unscrew the bowl from the filter head and remove the bowl.
- 2. Remove the old element and discard it.
- 3. Flush the bowl with clean non-flammable solvent and dry it with filtered air.
- 4. Insert a new filter element into the bowl and install the bowl on the head. Tighten to 25 ft.-lbs. of torque.
- 5. Loosen the pressure line at the outlet port in the filter head.
- 6. Move the throttle lever all the way to "Decr", then crank the engine until air free hydraulic oil comes from the outlet port in the filter head.
- 7. Tighten the pressure line at the outlet port.
Changing Oil In The Pump Drive Gearbox
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SHUT THE ENGINE DOWN AND REMOVE THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION SWITCH BEFORE WORKING ON THE GEARBOX. ACCIDENTAL ENGAGEMENT OF THE GEARBOX DRIVE SYSTEM COULD CAUSE SERIOUS INJURIES. |
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- 1. Remove the drain plug and allow the oil to drain.
- 2. Reinstall the drain plug.
- 3. Remove the check plug and breather.
- 4. Add oil through the breather port until it reaches the check plug level.
- 5. Reinstall the check plug and breather.
Changing Oil In The Track Gear Reducers
- 1. Move the machine so that a drain plug in a gear reducer is at the bottom of the case.
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SHUT THE ENGINE DOWN AND REMOVE THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION SWITCH BEFORE WORKING ON A GEAR REDUCER. ACCIDENTAL ENGAGEMENT OF THE TRACKS COULD CAUSE SERIOUS INJURIES. |
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- 2. Remove the drain plug and allow the oil to drain. Install the plug.
- 3. Move the machine so the fill plug is at the top of the case.
- 4. Remove the check plug and fill plug.
- 5. Add oil through the fill plug until check plug level is reached.
- 6. Install the check plug and fill plug.
- 7. Repeat steps 1 through 6 for the other tracks.
Changing Oil In The Cutter Drive Sheave And Gear Reducer
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SHUT THE ENGINE DOWN, LOCK THE CUTTER CONTROL AT "OFF", AND REMOVE THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION SWITCH BEFORE WORKING ON THE CUTTER. SERIOUS INJURIES CAN RESULT FROM INADVERTENT STARTING OF THE CUTTER. |
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- 1. Remove the cover plate outside the cutter drive belt guard, then open the cutter drive belt guard.
- 2. Rotate the cutter so that the gear reducer check plug is centered in the cover plate opening and the drain plug is at the bottom of the gear reducer.
- 3. Remove the drain plug and let the oil drain out.
- 4. Loosen the front nut on the cutter belt tension adjusting bolt and turn the rear nut to relieve the belt tension, then remove the belts.
- 5. Attach a lifting device to the cutter drive sheave and remove the mounting bolts, then insert a 1/2-13 NC bolt into each of the three threaded holes in the sheave. Turn the bolts evenly and alternately to free the sheave, then remove the sheave.
- 6. Remove the bolts from the bearing cap and pull the drive shaft from the gear reducer. Check the bearings and seals.
- 7. Carefully insert the drive shaft into the gear reducer and install the bearing cap bolts, then install the sheave.
- 8. Install the drain plug in the gear reducer, rotate the cutter to position the gear reducer check plug 2 inches below the cutter centerline, then remove the gear reducer and sheave check plugs and breathers.
- 9. Add oil through each breather port until it reaches check plug port level, wait several minutes for the oil level to even out throughout the reducer or sheave, then add more oil. Repeat until the oil remains at check plug port level.
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EXTREME CARE MUST BE TAKEN WHEN ADDING OIL TO ENSURE THAT THE PROPER OIL LEVEL IS REACHED. THE CHECK PLUG PORT AND BREATHER PORT ARE BOTH CONNECTED TO THE SAME COMPARTMENT, SO OIL MAY FLOW FROM THE CHECK PLUG PORT EVEN THOUGH THE OVERALL OIL LEVEL IS STILL LOW. BE SURE TO ALLOW ENOUGH TIME FOR THE OIL TO FLOW THROUGH THE BEARINGS AND REACH THE CORRECT LEVEL IN ALL COMPARTMENTS. MORE TIME MUST BE ALLOWED FOR COLD OIL SINCE IT WILL NOT FLOW AS FAST AS WARMER OIL. |
- 10. After the correct oil level is assured, install the check plugs, cover plates and breathers.
Lubricating The Power Take-Off Bearings
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TO BE CERTAIN BOTH BEARINGS ARE ADEQUATELY LUBRIAVSED AND ALL HOUSING CAVITIES ARE FILLED WITH LUBRICANT, APPLY GREASE THROUGH BOTH GREASE FITTINGS UNTIL EXCESS LUBRICANT FLOWS FROM THE RELIEF VALVE. |
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SHUT THE ENGINE DOWN, LOCK THE CUTTER CONTROL AT "OFF", AND REMOVE THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION SWITCH BEFORE WORKING NEAR THE CUTTER BELTS. SERIOUS INJURIES CAN RESULT FROM INADVERTENT STARTING OF THE CUTTER. |
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- 1. If necessary, unbolt the right side averaging ski beams, remove the retaining bolt from the extension, swivel the extension out of the way, then open the cutter belt guard.
- 2. Connect a grease gun filled with the proper lubricant (see page 5-1 for specification) to the rear grease fitting. Apply lubricant through the fitting until excess lubricant flows from the relief valve.
- 3. Repeat step 2 for the front grease fitting.
- 4. Close the cutter belt guard and install the averaging ski and extension.
NOTE: EXPANSION OF THE LUBRICANT DUE TO HEAT MAY CAUSE LUBRICANT TO FLOW FROM THE RELIEF VALVE FOR APPROXIMATELY THE FIRST 10 HOURS OF OPERATION. THIS IS NORMAL AND LUBRICANT SHOULD NOT BE ADDED TO THE POWER TAKE-OFF TO REPLACE LUBRICANT LOST THROUGH THE RELIEF VALVE.
Inspecting The Air Compressor
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SHUT THE ENGINE DOWN BEFORE WORKING IN THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT. STAY CLEAR OF HOT EXHAUST DUCTING. |
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Remove the discharge head fittings and inspect the compressor discharge line for excessive carbon deposits. If excessive buildup is noted in either, the discharge line must be cleaned or replaced and the compressor checked more thoroughly, paying special attention to the air induction system, oil supply and return system, and proper cooling. If necessary, repair or replace the compressor. Check for noisy compressor operation, which could indicate a worn drive gear coupling, and replace and/or adjust as necessary. Check all compressor mounting bolts and retighten evenly if necessary. Check for leakage and proper unloader mechanism operation. Replace if defective in any way.